Crosscut Saw Manual

Filing the Saw, continued

Setting, continued

A third method uses a hand-held anvil and a hammer.

The principle is the same for the three methods: the tooth is bent over an anvil with a direct or indirect hammer blow.

The first two methods have definite disadvantages over the third. They each require a specialized tool, and they are slow. To check the set in the first method, the saw must be lifted off the setting stake.

The second method is a little more efficient because the saw doesn't have to be moved. The tool can be used with the saw in a vise. There is no chance of a misdirected hammer blow marring the tooth. However, there's a good chance of banging and dulling the tooth tip with the tool, and the tool isn't really designed for removing set if too much is put into the tooth.

The third method is recommended because of its speed and accuracy. Necessary tools are an 8-ounce set hammer, a set anvil, and a spider (set gauge).

There doesn't appear to be a current manufacturer for a hammer specifically designed for setting. A setting hammer should have a fairly small face. A large face such as most ballpein hammers have is difficult to use for setting without hitting adjacent teeth. The best substitute for a setting hammer is a tinner's riveting hammer that weighs about 8 ounces.

Anvils were manufactured in a variety of sizes and shapes. Most were made of hardened steel and had a bevel to bend the tooth over. There is no known manufacturer for hand-held anvils. Any piece of steel that can be held comfortably in the hand, has a flat face, and weighs about 2 pounds will work. A piece of 1½-inch-diameter shaft about 5 inches long works well. It is not necessary to have a bevel--simply set the tooth over the edge of the face.

The spider (set gauge) is used to measure the tooth set. To measure the set for which the spider is adjusted, place it on a flat surface so that the feet on the three short legs contact the surface. With light pressure on the three short legs, measure the clearance under the fourth foot (or longer leg) with a feeler gauge. A piece of plate glass or a mirror will work for the flat surface, though it is wise to check the spider several places on the surface so errors caused by irregularities can be averaged.

Spiders

As indicated earlier, a set of about 0.010 inch would probably be satisfactory for an average cut using a felling saw. About 0.015 inch of set is required for a heavy bucking saw.

The spider "set"

To adjust the spider for less set, place it on a flat carborundum stone, and while putting pressure on the short crosspiece, grind the feet down until it measures correctly. For more set, shorten either end of the long crosspiece. It is important that the foot at the end of the long leg is flat and parallel to the plane defined by the other three feet. This assures a constant reading no matter where the tip of the cutter tooth contacts the foot. This can be checked by lightly grinding that foot while the two feet on the short crosspiece are in contact with the stone and observing the resulting pattern on the foot.

To set the saw, place an anvil on the point side of the tooth and strike the tooth on the beveled side with a set hammer. The bevel on the anvil should be about ¼inch below the tip of the tooth and the direction and placement of the hammer blow such that the tip of the cutter tooth is bent over the bevel. Be sure to strike the tooth squarely. If the tooth is struck a glancing blow with the edge of the hammer face, the point of impact will be badly marred. This sometimes work-hardens the metal enough that a file won't cut it and it may make the tooth more susceptible to breaking.

Setting cutter teeth with hand-held anvils